The Deserts in Egypt
Some people seek adventure, nature, culture,
inspiration, inner peace or spirituality.
Others may be suffering from job related
burnouts or lost themselves in the maelstrom
of their daily lives - yet for others a
desert trip can be a life-changing
experience, an opportunity for
self-healing or re-discovery.
Egypt
deserts afford something for everyone and each
traveler comes for their own personal reasons. Desert trips can be what you want it to be. There is no
such thing as a fixed schedule per day or daily itinerary;
it’s just time and space you share with yourself or others in
a wilderness of sand, mountains and oasis’s. In the desert
everything is possible but nothing is compulsory.
For
adventure you can explore the majesty of the desert on camel or
jeep, spend a night under the stars and take pleasure in a
morning dip in the hot springs.
Let the
star-lit night skies and the silent spaces create your own personal oasis, an
inner peace to take back with you when you return home.
It is a very special experience to be riding a camel in this virgin landscape,
to be moving along with the cadence of this majestic animal for a few days.
Other areas of the desert can only be reached by jeep. A personal encounter with
this untouched, magical desert is a perfect way to feel part of nature and to
obtain a sense of inner calm.
It doesn't really matter if we fully understand the
history of how the famous Egyptian pyramids were made; for centuries
people from all walks of life have been fascinated with
incomprehensible man-made
structures; equally eccentric are
the
rock formations and sand dunes
scattered throughout the Western desert.
Man
and nature have co-existed here since the stone age, but the
stars, rock formations and sand dunes defy the calculation of
human calendars.
Coming face to face with these enormous formations in the Western desert and
entering them will make a lifetime impression on you. A Space of Infinite
Serenity.
Just as imposing is the Western desert. The sand wilderness that lies west of
the river Nile is rugged with a unique variety of landscapes, which cannot be
described in words and can hardly be captured in photographs! The desert has
many faces; the mountains are powerfully bold, sometimes emerging in clear-cut
contours of virgin sands or covered in black lava. In the southern region you'll see immaculate and white limestone mountains in so many different shapes
that you might imagine yourself at a fine art exhibition of sculptures!
The word oasis if often used to describe a place where you can forget the cares
of everyday life, relax rest and renew yourself. Egypt's oasis’s are just that,
unspoiled refuges from the modern world, pockets of civilization in the dramatic
setting of the desert Surrounded by sand and sky; the oasis’s have a sense of
timelessness rare in the 20th century.
Oasis was originally an Egyptian word (from the Coptic ouahe). Egypt oasis's are
still among the most sacred in places in the world, each with a special
character of its own. Wherever you stay, you can enjoy the tranquility of the
Bedouin lifestyle, date groves, pigeon towers and blue-washed mud houses.
Fayoum Oasis
The
name Fayoum originates from the hieroglyphic word Bayoum, which means "the Sea"
a reference to the large inland lake, Karoun. Fayoum isn't a true oasis since
it depends on Nile water, not underground springs or wells. The ancient Bahr
Yussef canal runs through the center of the city and irrigates the land.
Dakhala
Dakhala is a collection of fourteen different settlements, dominated on its
northern horizon by a wall of rose-colored rock. Fertile cultivated areas
growing rice, peanuts and fruit are dotted between sand dunes along the roads
from Farafra and Kharga in this area of outstanding natural beauty.
The capital, Mut, named after the ancient goddess of the Theban Triad, houses
the Museum of the Inheritance, a traditional house, with an intricate wooden
combination lock. Rooms, with sculpted clay figures, are arranged to display
different aspects of Dakhalan culture and family life. Al-Kasr, about 35
kilometers from Mut, was originally a Roman settlement, which later became the
medieval capital of Dakhala. The old town is a labyrinth of mud-walled alleys
narrowly separating houses with elaborately carved wooden lintels; there is also
an Ayyubid mosque here. You can climb to the rooftop of the 10th century
Madrassa for wonderful views of the surrounding area. Bir al-Gbel, a
palm-fringed salt lake where you can camp and picnic, is on the road back to
Mut.
Other day trips from Mut include the 1st-century Al-Muzawaka tombs and Deit
al-Hagar, a temple that was originally dedicated to the Theban Triad and later
rebuilt by the Romans. After exploring the temple, you can bathe in the hot
mineral spring nearby. You can also visit Bashendi to see Roman tombs and a
factory where carpets are still woven with scenes of Dakhalan life. Nearby is
Balaat village, a trading post with ancient Nubia, archeologists are still
uncovering dozens of 6th dynasty mastabas
Farafra
Farafra, known as Ta-iht or the 'Land of the Cow' in Pharonic times, is a single
village. The most isolated of the New Valley Oasis, it is renowned for its
strong traditions and godliness. According to folklore, the villagers once lost
track of time and had to send a rider to Dakhala so they could hold the Friday
prayers on the right day.
The oldest part of the village is on a hillside next to a peaceful walled palm
grove. A short distance away there are hot mineral springs at Bir Setta and
swimming at El-Mufid Lake. As in other oasis many of Farafra's houses are
painted blue to ward off evil eyes but some houses are also decorated with
landscapes, birds and animals, the handiwork of local artist, Badr. It is a
combination of a house, museum and studio exhibiting his paintings and ceramics
situated in a garden full of sculptures made from objects found in the
surrounding desert. A local merchant, known as Mr. Socks, sells beautiful
hand-knitted camelhair sweaters, socks and scarves.
El Kharga
El
Kharga used to be the last but one stop on The Forty Days Road, the infamous
slave-trade route between North Africa and the tropical south. Today, it is the
biggest new valley oasis and its modern city houses 60,000 people, including
1,000 Nubians who moved here after the creation of lake Nasser.
Outside the main center is the Temple of Hibis; built on the site of an 18th
dynasty settlement of Saites, Persians and Ptolemies; one of the few Persian
monuments in Egypt, the 6th century BC temple is well preserved with painted
vultures and huge relief's of Darius greeting Egyptian gods on the outer walls.
Ten kilometers away, the Necropolis of Al-Bagawat contains 263 mud-brick chapels
with Coptic murals, including the Chapel of Peace with images of Adam and Eve
and the Ark on its dome and the Chapel of the Exodus with frescoes of Pharonic
troops pursuing the Jews led by Moses, out of Egypt. Pharonic monuments include
the al-Hhuwaytah Temple, which dates from 522 BC, and the Temple of Amenebis.
The thermal springs at Bulaq and Nasser villages to the south are famous for
water temperatures of up to 43° Celsius and reputed to be suitable for the
treatment of rheumatism and allergies. Camping facilities are available near
both villages.
Bahariya Oasis
Further south is the Bahariya Oasis, the second largest settlement in Kharga.
Houses are designed in traditional Nubian style by Hassan Fathy and remain
uninhabited; local people refused to live in them because of their similarity to
tombs and building stopped in the late 1960s.
Ancient monuments include the Temple of Dush, dedicated to Isis and Serapis. Its
name derives from Kush, the ancient Sudanese capital that traded with Egypt
along the Nile. Archeologists are still unearthing the ancient city of Kysis
with which a temple is associated; and elaborate system of clay pipes and
abandoned Christian church, suggest that Kysis was abandoned when its
underground springs dried up but the exact date remains a mystery.
The White Desert
'The stars speak of man's insignificance in the long eternity of time; the
desert speaks of his insignificance right now.'
A trip to the White Desert is something that no visitor to the new valley should
pass up. Travelers coming from Bahariya will cross through the Black Desert,
passing the tiny oasis of El-Hayiz on the way. Nearby there are some Roman
ruins, including a church with Coptic graffiti. Bahariya and Farafra are
separated by huge golden sand dunes, which make a stunning photograph during the
journey.
Once through the Al-Sillim Pass you enter the White Desert, a unique landscape
of surreal wind-eroded rock formations that is particularly magical at sunrise
or sunset. Here, as the moon rises over the white crags, it is easier to believe
that you're surrounded by icebergs and snowdrifts or on a lunar landscape than
in the middle of the desert. On moonless nights, you can sit around a driftwood
fire as the galaxy spreads above you and the sky is lit by shooting stars. Camel
and jeep trips, including a hot meal and fresh bread, made in the sand
Bedouin-style, can be arranged from Farafra.
Set in a depression covering over 2000 square kilometers Bahariya Oasis is
surrounded by black hills made up of ferruginous quartzite and dolerite. Most of
the villages and cultivated land can be viewed from the top of the 50-meter high
Jebel al-Mi'ysrah, together with the massive dunes, which threaten to engulf
some of the older settlements. Wildlife is plentiful, especially birds such as
whitears; crops (which only cover a small percentage of the total area) include
dates, olives, apricots, rice and corn.
Bawiti is the largest village in the oasis; its picturesque hillside quarter
overlooks lush palm groves irrigated by the Ain al-Beshmo, a natural spring hewn
from the rock in Roman times which gushes water at 30° Celsius.
The neighboring village of Al-Qast was built on the remains of a 26th dynasty
temple nearby at Qarat Hilwah; you can still see tombs with paintings dating
from the same period. Famous for its mineral and mineral springs, including Bir
Mathar and Bir al-Ghaba, Bahariya is recognized among local Bedouin for their
informal music and poetry recitals. You can go on desert excursions by day and
spend your evenings relaxing in the cafes smoking shisha, playing backgammon and
listening to authentic Bedouin music. Travelers can now go on either to Siwa,
via a new road, or to Farafra, taking in a night in the White desert en route.
New Valley Oasis
The
four New Valley oasis‘s are situated along a dead, prehistoric branch of the
Nile that is dependent on springs and wells tapping water under the desert.
Isolated from each other and from the rest of the outside world these oasis’s
have only been accessible to tourists since the 1980s.
Siwa Oasis
Siwa, is considered by many the most inaccessible of all Egypt's oasis’s until
very recently, is also one of the most fascinating. On the edge of the Great
Sand Sea, its rich history includes a visit from Alexander the Great to consult
the Oracle of Amun in 331 BC.
Siwans have their own culture and customs and they speak a Berberf language,
Wiwi, rather than Arabic. Many women still wear traditional costumes and silver
jewelry like those displayed in the traditional Siwan House museum in the town
center. Siwa remains one of the best places to buy jewelry, rugs, baskets and
traditional robes and headdresses decorated with antique coins.
Shali, founded in 1203, superseded the original settlement, Aghurmi. Built of
salt-impregnated mud of kharsif, the fortress-like community expanded upwards
rather than outwards. Situated among thick palm groves, walled gardens and olive
orchards, with numerous freshwater springs and salt lakes, modern Siwa clusters
beneath the remains of ancient Shali.
You can climb through the ruins of the old city for magnificent views of the
entire oasis. Walk, hire a bicycle or ride in a caretta (donkey cart) to
outlying sights and bathing places. These include 26th Dynasty tombs with murals
and inscriptions at Jebel al-Mawta (The Hill of the Dead) and the Oracle of
Amun, and acropolis temple dating from around 550 BC.
Near the Oracle are the ruins of the Amun temple and the famous Cleopatra Bath,
a deep pool of bubbling water where you can bath in. Another favorite bathing
spot is Fatnis Island on the salt lake of Birket Siwa, which is surrounded by
palm trees and beautiful scenery.
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